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Guide de la femme du monde (1898)

PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:14 pm
by Edwin Corrie
Here's another old book with a section on napkin folding:

"Guide de la femme du monde" by the Marquise de Pompeillan (1898)
http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k5525570p.r=guide+de+la+femme+du+monde.langEN.swf

The napkin folding part is from page 59 to page 64, with some illustrations on page 67 (use the "Go to" box at the top of the page).

Re: Guide de la femme du monde (1898)

PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 1:16 am
by Joan Sallas
Thanks Edwin to show us the link to the old french book «Usages du monde dans la société moderne. Le guide de la femme du monde, précédé du guide de la jeune fille, suivi du guide de l'homme du monde, par la Marquise de Pompeillan» (Paris: Pontet-Brault Editeur, [1898], p. 59-64, 67)

Pompeillans book is a sample more of many books about the new education for the modern women that were published in the 19th century. This books have frequently a capitel about (or against) napkin folding. After Napoleon Bonaparte the majority of folded napkins in France were fans frequently in a (champagne) glass. The oldest founded mention of a napkin in a glass is from 1821. In the first victorian times in England the napkins were folded frequently in sachet/pocket form. In german speaking countries and in Skandinavia the napkins were folded as complexe layered and rolled models, but too in fans without glas.

The eight models printed in Pompeillan book are not original, but also poor redrawed and rewrited from two other earlier french bokks and from a french-belgian book:

# Motton, Célestin: “L'école des meilleures cuisinières bourgeoises” (Paris: Ract et Falquet, [ca. 1878] pages. 811-822

# Daranvat, Albert: "L'art de plier les serviettes" (Paris: L. Baudot libraire, [ca. 1885] [textil][fr]. This book was published too by Bernardin-Bechet et fils in Paris.

# Verboom, Agnès: "L'art de plier les serviettes de table". (Bruxelles, Paris: Journal des Dames et des Demoiselles, [1889])

The 1st model “Éventail à pointe" appairs by Motton (p. 815) as "L'éventail à feuilles de lis et à trois rangs rabattus", and as "Éventail a feuilles de lis" by Daranvat (p. 13) and by Verboom (p. 12). Probably Pompeillan thought that the name that Mottons give to this model was too long and taked the name of another similar model of Motton ("L'éventail à pointe et à rabat", p. 813) which Daranvat and Verboom published under Mottons name too.

The 2nd model "La cocotte" don't appairs by Motton and Daranvat, but by Verboom (p. 24) as "La Cocotte", and its a wittness of a frequent tendence to fold with napkins traditional or froebelian paperfolding models learned for waiters wenn they were children in Kindergarten. We don't forgot that after Germany, it was exactly in Belgium and Netherlands where the pedagogical influence of the froebelian paper folding ideas was introduced very early. One of the first books about froebelian paperfolding is Jean-François Jacobs' "Manuel pratique des Jardins d'enfants de Frédéric Froebel, à l'usage des institutrices et des mères de famille" (Bruxelles: Claassen, 1859), in which appairs described this model. The same model, called "sprinkhaan" (Grashooper), appairs too in Elise van Calcars "De kleine Papierwerkers. Wat men van een stukje papier al maken kann. Het vouwen" (Amsterdam: Schadd, 1863).

The 3rd model "Éventail a poignard" appairs only by Motton (p. 816-817) as "Le Poignard"

The 4th model "En Palme" appairs by Motton (p. 816) as "La double feuille de lis à un rang", by Daranvat (p. 23) as "La double feuille de lis" and by Verboom (p. 14) as "Double Feuille de lis". As in the 1st Pompeillans model, she taked probably the name of another similar model of Motton ("La Palme", p. 816) which Daranvat and Verboom published too.

The 5th model "En Éventail denticulé" appairs by Motton (p. 812) as "L'éventail à dents de scie et à quatre rangs rabattus" , and by Verboom (p. 10) as "Éventail à dents de scie".

The 6th model "En double cornet" appairs by Motton (p. 819) as "Le double cornet", by Daranvat (p. 17) as "Le Cornet double" and by Verboom (p. 19) as "Le Porte-Bouquet". Bouquet means in this case a bouquet for flowers that the women have in their hand by society parties, frequently subjected with a thin chain to a finger ring.

The 7th model "En papillon" appairs by Motton (p. 817-818) as "Le Papillon " and by Daranvat (p. 24) and Verboom (p. 17) as "Le Papillon" too.

The 8th and last model "Éventail a pointe de face (sans dents)" appairs by Motton (p. 813) as "Èventail a pointe et a rabat" by Daranvat (p.10) and by Verboom (p. 11) under the same name as Motton.

The background of Mottons napkins pictures was unusually in napkin designs black, probably stilistic taked from the swedish cooking books of Knut Erik Venne Höökenberg "Höökenberg såsom kock, hemfärgare och taffeltäcktare" and "Kokbok och Färgbok för unga husmödrar", both 1854 published. Daranvat converted the black backround in white, which was used for Verboom too. Agnès Verboom taked 16 of 25 models and model names of Célestin Motton and rewrited Mottons text.

Mottons models were taked from Mr. Brachet, a french maître d'hôtel. Motton self give us a very interesting comment about this source on the page 822:

"Tous ces détails sur les différentes manières de plier les serviettes nous ont été communiqués pas M. Brachet, maître d'hôtel. Cet artiste possède le talent d'exécuter dans cette partie les formes les plus gracieuses et les plus élégantes. Nous ne saurions mieux faire que de l'encourager à marcher dans cette voie, qui forme un des premiers fleurons de notre cuisine nationale et universelle."

If the Brachets Modells were created himself the models isn't sure, but probably.

Verboom give us another interesting comment on the page 6 about her model sources too:

"Ce n'était pas chose aussi facile qu'on aurait pu le croire tout d'abord. Chaque maître d'hôtel a son mode de pliage et il y en a peu qui consentent à en divulger le secret. Ce n'est qu'avec beaucoup de peine que nous avons pu réunir une série de modèles différents de serviettes pliées. Quelques-uns [my comment: the 16 models taked from Mottons book], quoique connus et généralement adoptés, méritaient néanmoins de trouver une place dans cette collection; d'autres, et c'est le plus grand nombre [my comment: really only seven models] sont complètement inédits et sont le dernier mot de la nouveauté en ce genre."

1880 Motton published together with Louis-Eustache Audot [1783-1870] and Ferdinand Grandi the second edition of "Supplément à la cuisinière de la campagne et de la ville. Service de table à la Française et à la Russe. Art de plier les serviettes", but in this book aren't published other models than Mottons book.

Mottons models were published in german in the anonym booklet "Die Kunst Servietten zu falten" (Wien: Wiener Mode, 1890) with some new models in many editions and diferent publishers until before the 1st world war as a supplement or as a capitel of many german and austrian cooking books.

All the mentioned books here are collected in original format in the Padore Library/Archive

Thanks again to Edwin for your interest about the history of napkin folding.

joan